As is with almost all of a king’s possession, this 37th marathon medal was minted in gold. Or at least so it seemed. For the 21st Pattaya Marathon, an annual running event in Thailand’s Chonburi province, was also billed as the King’s Cup, having gained the patronage King Bhumibol Adulyadej, revered monarch of Thailand.
The road to Pattaya city, about an hour and a half drive from Suvarnabhumi airport in Bangkok started with a quick 3-hour night flight from home using one of those promotional tickets on my favorite budget airline. From the airport to the Pattaya itself, I took the first trip on the special bus that regularly plies the route.
I had never been to Pattaya before. Not that I was unaware of its reputation, stellar or otherwise. Five years ago, I attended a meeting in Bang Sean, a city close to Pattaya. Several of my co-attendees had fun in Pattaya at that time. I stayed in Bang Sean for the on-going car racing festival instead.
The center of activity for the event was the Central Festival Pattaya Beach Department Store on Pattaya Beach Road. As this was organized by the city government, fun fare was at a minimum- sans the usual race booklet, emailed instructions, etc. To me it didn't matter- there was beach to explore just less than a hundred meters away.
For overseas runners, there was Go Adventure Asia (GAA) again to the rescue. Through its website, online registration of this and other sporting events including marathons and triathlons in Thailand and elsewhere in the region is easy, quick and simple. GAA even had a dedicated booth for their registrants at the mall.
I booked a hotel that was just a couple of minutes walk from the beachfront Central Festival Department Store. This would prove to be very convenient before and after the event. Even attending the pasta party held at the mall in the evening before the race was a breeze. No haggling with moto-taxi drivers would be needed.
The waiting for the food lines to move during the welcome party, however, was not as easy. For reasons unbeknownst to those who could not speak the language, it took at least half an hour for the lines to start serving the different types of dishes that were prepared in abundance. Both here and after the race, there was enough food for everyone.
The Entertainment
Then it was entertainment time with various performers on stage on what was to be at least a three-hour program. There were traditional Thai dances, rock bands, and singers. A juggler and comedians made sure the evening turned out to be a pleasant one for the runners who attended the party that evening.
I did not stay long and decided, after a brief walk to Pattaya’s famous Walking Street, just to see what makes it infamous, to call it an early night. As I walked back to my hotel, the folded umbrellas on the beach and the stillness of the waters was in stark contrast to the raucousness going on in other city parts.
The following morning, as I arrived at the start area for the 4:30 AM gun start, a marshal was already giving instructions to race volunteers and runners. A substantial crowd had already gathered. This being a city that also doesn’t sleep early, I could see that many of the spectators were just about to call it a morning.
But not the full marathon runners who had come from all over Thailand plus at least a dozen or so other countries- Kenya, Ethiopia, Russia, Australia, Hong Kong, Japan, China, Singapore, Malaysia, Philippines, Germany, and the UK, among others. I could see familiar faces, the proverbial usual suspects in Asian marathons. I felt right at home.
The Spectators
And because this was a government-sponsored run, representatives of several sectors of Pattaya’s society came to see the runners flagged off. Among them were school children in their blue uniforms. I would see more blue-shirted volunteers or government personnel along the route performing various duties that morning.
The Officials
Among those who graced the occasion were Pongsak Preechavit, Chonburi’s Deputy Provincial Governor, Itthiphol Kunpleum, Pattaya Mayor, Chaiwat Tamthai, Assistant Director of the Tourism Authority of Thailand; and Mr. Suchart Jaesuraphap, Treasurer of Athletics Authority of Thailand. They wished the runners well.
The Race Categories
There were to be five different event categories that morning- the full marathon (42.195 km), a half marathon (21.1 km), a quarter marathon (10.55 km), a short ‘student run’ (3.5 km), and a wheelchair marathon (42.195 km). First to line-up for the 4:30 AM flag-off were the full marathon runners, mostly men with a few women.
The First Few Ks
At the stroke of 4:30 AM, runners began to traverse what would be a very arduous course. The first few kilometers would bring them into the less touristic parts of the city, passing through those ever-present majestic gates that one sees throughout Thailand honoring the royal family. It was still dark but the roads were well-lighted.
The Roads
In fact, all of the roads we would run on would be paved and well-maintained. We would pass through 6-lane highways, occupying the vehicle traffic-free 3-lane half. As the lanes were inclined, unlike most runners, I stayed on the inner lanes to avoid too much uneven stress on either leg. I would use this strategy throughout the race.
The Half Marathon
I ran with the rear pack- in fact, one of the last to cross the starting line. I was feeling a bit heavy and decided to take it slowly at first. After a couple of stops to lighten my load, I increased my speed a little bit. But even before I could reach the 10K mark, the lead runners of the 21K category who started 30 minutes later would start overtaking me.
The Check Points
As dawn finally broke, we passed the first of several check points- the U-turn spot for the half marathon. It had taken me an hour and a quarter to reach this point. I was aiming for a 7 minutes per K pace and was 5 minutes off. I knew I had a lot a making up to do if I were to do a sub-5 finish and decided to run at a faster pace from hereon in.
The Hydration Stops
In a coastal city like Pattaya, you perspire a lot due to the very high humidity. Thus, it was important for me to use almost all of the hydration stops set up every 2 kilometers or so. The race volunteers offered runners a choice between water and an electrolyte drink. I chose water for chasing down electrolyte capsules and energy gels.
The Medics
There would be ambulances stationed along the course. I would stop at one for a pain killer spray, though pain I didn't feel at that time. In at least two of them, I saw runners who decided to call it quits already due to various injuries. One of them was an elite lady runner from Africa, probably Kenyan, no doubt very disappointed that day.
The Professionals
For professional runners there would be many mainly from the African countries of Ethiopia and Kenya, both in the men's and women's race categories. The event’s 2 Million Baht in total cash prizes may have lured them to Pattaya that day. It was Lawrence Kiptoo Saina from Kenya, last year’s champion, who took home the men's 42K trophy.
I ran with the rear pack- in fact, one of the last to cross the starting line. I was feeling a bit heavy and decided to take it slowly at first. After a couple of stops to lighten my load, I increased my speed a little bit. But even before I could reach the 10K mark, the lead runners of the 21K category who started 30 minutes later would start overtaking me.
As dawn finally broke, we passed the first of several check points- the U-turn spot for the half marathon. It had taken me an hour and a quarter to reach this point. I was aiming for a 7 minutes per K pace and was 5 minutes off. I knew I had a lot a making up to do if I were to do a sub-5 finish and decided to run at a faster pace from hereon in.
In a coastal city like Pattaya, you perspire a lot due to the very high humidity. Thus, it was important for me to use almost all of the hydration stops set up every 2 kilometers or so. The race volunteers offered runners a choice between water and an electrolyte drink. I chose water for chasing down electrolyte capsules and energy gels.
There would be ambulances stationed along the course. I would stop at one for a pain killer spray, though pain I didn't feel at that time. In at least two of them, I saw runners who decided to call it quits already due to various injuries. One of them was an elite lady runner from Africa, probably Kenyan, no doubt very disappointed that day.
For professional runners there would be many mainly from the African countries of Ethiopia and Kenya, both in the men's and women's race categories. The event’s 2 Million Baht in total cash prizes may have lured them to Pattaya that day. It was Lawrence Kiptoo Saina from Kenya, last year’s champion, who took home the men's 42K trophy.
The Winners
In the women's 42K event, Euzaeth Jeruiyoj Chemweno, also from Kenya, was declared champion. I would see her being escorted by a marshal-on-bike as she raced back to the finish line around the 16K mark. But there were Thai champions as well- Amnuay Tongmit and Natya Thanaronwat, in the men's and women's categories, respectively.
The U Turn
If things went according to plan, I should have reached the U-turn slot at about the 22K point in two and a half hours. Enough time for me to maybe do a sub-5 42K. But this was not about to be. A rather long visit to the loo at around the 17K would delay me for at least a quarter of an hour. Thai food, I like so much, and I somehow had to pay.
The Return
On the way back, the sun was definite up and the clouds had deserted Pattaya city already. It was going to be a very, very hot day! I was to learn later that the city would experience one of the hottest days that Sunday! With still more than 15K to run at this point, in fact I was thinking of what survival strategy to use already.
The Die-hards
But heat and humidity, nonetheless, the lure of marathon running draws certain types of people to it, over and over and over again. Never mind the pain and agony both during and after the run. Somehow, everything is worth it or will be. Take this Thai runner, for example. I saw him run Laguna Phuket just a month before and, again, he was here in Pattaya!
The Maniacs
Or take these club mates in the Marathon Maniacs, for example - Marathon Maniac Mohan from Singapore and Marathon Maniac Mike from Hong Kong/UK. They, along with other Maniacs Jennifer, Ashe, Chew, and Trent from Singapore, Malaysia, and Australia, also ran Phuket and still had to be here that morning!
The Turn
But there wasn't going to be too much socializing in the second half of the marathon course. By this point, the 300 or so plus full marathon runners were running solo, with the unforgiving rays of the sun tanning even more their already burnt skins. When I saw the turn sign signalling the loop to Pattaya beach, I heaved a deep sigh of relief, prematurely.
The Beach Front
For the next 5 kilometers or so, we would run on the beach front, with no clouds and vegetation to shelter us from the sun. But the beach views were magnificent! In fact, just about perfect for somebody wanting to get that tropical tan! I ambled into the beach walk and realized that the finish line could be seen but still very far ahead in the distance!
The Shade
Lucky however we were to have tall residential buildings, mainly luxury condominiums, at some points on the beach front- these provided the necessary shade for what was to be an increasingly hot morning! Of course, there were lots of restaurants along the beach- tempting us with the best the sea had to offer plus cold drinks!
The Welcome Arch
After running for about 30K, it was good to see the welcome arch of Pattaya city. As the main center of the Chonburi conurbation, Pattaya city has a total population of over half a million people. Many of these are expatriates who have chosen to retire in the city. Only a few of those souls, however, were on the city streets that morning.
The Last 5K
I thought that the remaining Ks would be a beachfront run. The sea breeze made the heat bearable despite the hot temperature and ever-high humidity. But then we made a right turn that diverted us away from the beach and back into the business district of the city. As there were no trees or tall buildings, there was no cover for sun-shy me!
The Right Lanes
We ran on the left lanes of a 6-lane super highway at this point. The sun was on the east and I reckoned, why not run on the right lanes instead where there were at least a few shaded areas? So I crossed the street and ran the next 2K or so in this way. At least one runner followed me as I watched the runners ahead to avoid turning the wrong way.
The Walking Street
The last 2K of the run would take us right into the entrance of the famed Pattaya Walking Street, considered the hottest street in the world, where anything and everything can be had, if one was willing to pay. Oddly though, but not totally unexpected, at mid morning, the street had none of the thousands who walk the same street at night!
The Contrast
In fact, it was hard to believe that just the previous night, this street was brimming with life, or at least parts of what used to live. For at this very same spot, I witnessed a beautiful Russian lady in black happily tending to Frankenstein in blood-stained white while he devoured the remnants of what used to be a person's right hand.
The Last Half-K
By the time I ran past Walking Street and was greeted with the sign announcing the last half-K, I had resigned to the notion that, again, this would be another one of those plus-5-hr finish in my 37-marathon/ ultramarathon, 2-year running streak. I had overtaken runners with almost no one overtaking me but a sub-5 finish it was not going to be.
The Finish
Arriving at the finish arch at about 10AM, I thought I heard the announcer call out my name, albeit pronounced wrongly. Not that it mattered. This was Pattaya where everyone is game and should be friendly. Despite the heat and humidity, I had just finished my 12th unique marathon/ultra for the year and it was time to simply be happy.
If things went according to plan, I should have reached the U-turn slot at about the 22K point in two and a half hours. Enough time for me to maybe do a sub-5 42K. But this was not about to be. A rather long visit to the loo at around the 17K would delay me for at least a quarter of an hour. Thai food, I like so much, and I somehow had to pay.
On the way back, the sun was definite up and the clouds had deserted Pattaya city already. It was going to be a very, very hot day! I was to learn later that the city would experience one of the hottest days that Sunday! With still more than 15K to run at this point, in fact I was thinking of what survival strategy to use already.
But heat and humidity, nonetheless, the lure of marathon running draws certain types of people to it, over and over and over again. Never mind the pain and agony both during and after the run. Somehow, everything is worth it or will be. Take this Thai runner, for example. I saw him run Laguna Phuket just a month before and, again, he was here in Pattaya!
Or take these club mates in the Marathon Maniacs, for example - Marathon Maniac Mohan from Singapore and Marathon Maniac Mike from Hong Kong/UK. They, along with other Maniacs Jennifer, Ashe, Chew, and Trent from Singapore, Malaysia, and Australia, also ran Phuket and still had to be here that morning!
But there wasn't going to be too much socializing in the second half of the marathon course. By this point, the 300 or so plus full marathon runners were running solo, with the unforgiving rays of the sun tanning even more their already burnt skins. When I saw the turn sign signalling the loop to Pattaya beach, I heaved a deep sigh of relief, prematurely.
For the next 5 kilometers or so, we would run on the beach front, with no clouds and vegetation to shelter us from the sun. But the beach views were magnificent! In fact, just about perfect for somebody wanting to get that tropical tan! I ambled into the beach walk and realized that the finish line could be seen but still very far ahead in the distance!
Lucky however we were to have tall residential buildings, mainly luxury condominiums, at some points on the beach front- these provided the necessary shade for what was to be an increasingly hot morning! Of course, there were lots of restaurants along the beach- tempting us with the best the sea had to offer plus cold drinks!
After running for about 30K, it was good to see the welcome arch of Pattaya city. As the main center of the Chonburi conurbation, Pattaya city has a total population of over half a million people. Many of these are expatriates who have chosen to retire in the city. Only a few of those souls, however, were on the city streets that morning.
I thought that the remaining Ks would be a beachfront run. The sea breeze made the heat bearable despite the hot temperature and ever-high humidity. But then we made a right turn that diverted us away from the beach and back into the business district of the city. As there were no trees or tall buildings, there was no cover for sun-shy me!
We ran on the left lanes of a 6-lane super highway at this point. The sun was on the east and I reckoned, why not run on the right lanes instead where there were at least a few shaded areas? So I crossed the street and ran the next 2K or so in this way. At least one runner followed me as I watched the runners ahead to avoid turning the wrong way.
The last 2K of the run would take us right into the entrance of the famed Pattaya Walking Street, considered the hottest street in the world, where anything and everything can be had, if one was willing to pay. Oddly though, but not totally unexpected, at mid morning, the street had none of the thousands who walk the same street at night!
In fact, it was hard to believe that just the previous night, this street was brimming with life, or at least parts of what used to live. For at this very same spot, I witnessed a beautiful Russian lady in black happily tending to Frankenstein in blood-stained white while he devoured the remnants of what used to be a person's right hand.
By the time I ran past Walking Street and was greeted with the sign announcing the last half-K, I had resigned to the notion that, again, this would be another one of those plus-5-hr finish in my 37-marathon/ ultramarathon, 2-year running streak. I had overtaken runners with almost no one overtaking me but a sub-5 finish it was not going to be.
Arriving at the finish arch at about 10AM, I thought I heard the announcer call out my name, albeit pronounced wrongly. Not that it mattered. This was Pattaya where everyone is game and should be friendly. Despite the heat and humidity, I had just finished my 12th unique marathon/ultra for the year and it was time to simply be happy.
The Route
The marathon route took runners from Beach Road out to Sukhumvit Road towards Sattahip and then to the Wat Khao Cheejan turn-off before returning to Pattaya via Jomtien and Khao Phratamnak. For varied reasons, over five million tourists walk the streets of Pattaya annually, making it Thailand's second most-visited city. Running them instead, for a King's Cup no less, would be an alternative reason for visiting this 'city of extremes', if only to experience Pattaya in a less infamous, healthy, and even royal way!
Korp koon krap Pattaya!
Korp koon krap Pattaya!
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