Discovering Victoria's Trail Running Secrets

It was truly a sight to behold- 10 tons of fireworks detonated from 17 Melbourne, Australia locations to herald the arrival of 2012. And at Federation Square where I was, the skies lit up not just in one location, but in a 360-degree fashion! The 600,000 Melbournites and tourists who were there with me to watch the first-ever golden fireworks and entertainment extravaganza celebrating Melbourne's links to the gold rush era could only utter a single word- awesome! For as seen from the amateurish video that I took of the event, the celebration was, literally and figuratively, truly a blast!

It would be my second time in five months to be in Melbourne and the first time after a very long time to welcome a new year on foreign shores. I arrived to vacation in the city just four days after finishing my 18th and final marathon for 2011- the Fubon Taipei Marathon. My right ankle that was injured in Taipei was still swollen and I had to spend a good two weeks resting and icing it at home. When I finally was able to put back on my running shoes, I reckoned that I just had to try something different, and perhaps even special. I ended up finding one of the state Victoria's secrets or so it seemed to me- its foreshore or coastal running trail. But on to this later.

In Victoria, as in the other Australian provinces, one can run endlessly. After all, there are only 3 persons occupying every square kilometer, on average. From streets, to wide-open parts and reserves, running can be on concrete and paved roads or narrow and rugged trails. In Melbourne, the Royal Botanic Gardens is a natural magnet for runners looking for scenic routes and lush greenery. In most suburbs, there are bike or walking/pedestrian lanes alongside city streets and avenues to run on with gusto. You just have to be careful in navigating those ever-present round-abouts, keeping in mind that Down Under, one drives left.

Source: http://www.hobsonsbay.vic.gov.au/

But with majority of Australia's population living close to the sea, running-, walking- and cycling-friendly trails abound. Some follow the natural coastline and are ages-old while others are more recent and man-made. These recreational trails offer city dwellers a welcome respite from hectic urban lifestyles. The case is no different in Victoria- the mother state of Melbourne, as I was to find out. One January 2012 late morning, close to the end of a running route that I decided to use in order to test-walk/run my injured ankle, I chanced upon a fork of a trail that I had missed while running the same route five months before. How pleased I was with this New Year's discovery! It was the starting point of the Hobson's Bay Foreshore Trail at Skeleton Creek in Altona Meadows- which, to me at least, had remained one of secrets of Victoria, running-wise.

Also known as the People, Piers and Pelicans Coastal Trail, the Hobson's Bay Foreshore Trail is a 23-kilometer coast-hugging trail that starts from the Westgate Bridge in Spotswood to the Skeleton Creek in Altona Meadows southwest of the center of Melbourne. The trail traverses or coasts along botanic gardens, sandy beaches, ecologically important reserves and habitats for both plants and bird species, museums, historic buildings, piers and important landmarks.

The coastal trail is easily accessible from Melbourne by water using the ferry service from Southgate or St. Kilda, or by land- using a bicycle, car, or train. The key Metro station if you take a train is Spotswood where one has then to walk a few hundred meters to reach the start of the trail close to the foot of the Westgate Bridge. The starting point is right in front of, perhaps appropriately for this blog- the planetarium and Scienceworks- Melbourne’s center for curious minds and active bodies that is always awash with science-related activities.

At the start of the trail one will find the first of a regular feature of the route for the next 23 kilometers- attention-grabbing map panels, marker tops, and directional panels made from recycled timber. The large map provides an overview of the trail. The colored dots on the map are of the same color as the marker tops, making it easy to find specific sites of interest along the way. The marker tops also identifies the location as part of the trail making it convenient for first-timers not to get lost or, if they do get lost, to find their way back.

Having located the starting point, it was then on to the business of running, only my second run for 2012, and to save my ankle for upcoming marathons I had already registered in before the injury occurred, walking. Less than 5K into the trail, I hit a familiar landmark and running terrain- the smokestack of the Newport Power Station that at 183 meters is one of the tallest structures in the area and in the city of Melbourne. Just the previous July, I was able to run this same route during the Sri Chinmoy Williamstown Marathon. I felt right at home.

The next interesting trail stop was Williamstown- one of the oldest settlements in Port Phillip Bay famous for its village atmosphere as it is for its rich maritime history. Aside from being home to centuries-old buildings and museums, the suburb is home to sporting clubs, playgrounds, a beach, a botanic garden, and even a protected habitat. The suburb's foreshore area offers breathtaking views of Greenwich Bay and the city of Melbourne. During the New Year’s Eve fireworks extravaganza, it was a place to be in order to get an overview of Melbourne's fireworks display.

After Williamstown, it was on to various types of running, walking, and bike trails- from the rough, rugged and winding, to the paved, cemented or asphalted and straight. Portions of the trail ran along Esplanade Avenue, choice address of multi-million dollar properties for the rich and famous all with one thing in common- magnificent views of Port Phillip Bay. If only I had that kind of money…

Along the way I ran into other runners, joggers, and walkers- some were running solo while others exercised with friends, dogs, or families, all enjoying the scenery. There are certain things to remember though when running Down Under. Lest like me you learn the hard, painful, and ugly way, to avoid getting burned by the invisible yet ever-present UV rays, even on seemingly cloudy days and all year round, wear a sunscreen. Also, to avoid dehydration, take a water bottle and drink even before becoming thirsty.

Running and walking alternately, I would also meet bikers along the trail- small girls and boys with their moms and dads, couples both young and elderly, serious bikers and athletes on training runs, and ordinary folks who prefer to travel the bike way. While using the trail at night was not allowed, I noted that some portions of the route were illuminated by solar-powered street lights, no doubt in line with Victoria’s drive to be environment-friendly.

For indeed the foreshore trail was an environment worth conserving- full of natural wonders of the animal kind- from pelicans, ducks, geese, and swans on land to those needed to be left or still caught at sea. The Jawbone Reserve along the way, for example, is one of the few remaining salt marsh mangrove habitats remaining in Melbourne. It hosts pelicans and migratory birds in abundance, giving rise to alternate name of this trail- People, Piers and Pelicans.

Various plants and trees were also aplenty along the trail- from interesting and colorful flowers to trees along the coastline that were bent inland, no doubt the decades-long effect of the wind blowing daily from the bay. Endangered native grass species such as the kangaroo, wallaby, and spear grasses could be found in the protected areas. Signs were posted encouraging local residents to resurrect the grasslands, and through this, the biodiversity.

Information about the various reserves and parks along the way was available at the City of Hobson’s Bay Information Center in Williamstown. Signboards with site descriptions and highlights were also set up at the reserves and parks themselves. To promote trail safety, pedestrians were advised to keep to pathways, for wheels to give way to pedestrians, and for approaching cyclists to ring a warning bell or yell before passing.

And along the entire trail were markers indicating the distance of the next major site in both directions. The colored directional panels could also be used to way-find from any point of entry to the trail. A few signs announced the locations and distances of the nearest comfort and eating zones. What not to do were also indicated. To avoid stiff penalties, trail users must not walk dogs without a  leash, not litter, and not take anything from the protected areas.

And what picturesque landmarks and monuments were present along the way! Many celebrated Victoria’s link to its maritime past- from the Timeball Tower in Point Gellibrand to the Time Beacon at Truganina Park. The Timeball Tower was originally a lighthouse built by convicted prisoners in the 1840s. It was then used until 1926 to aid passing ships set up their chronometers thus improving sea navigation's accuracy. 

And those who just wanted to sun bathe in the beach and relax had two points to choose from on the trail- the Williamstown Beach and Altona Beach. On windy days, windsurfing on Altona Beach is an extremely popular activity. And as the trail is also about piers, the Gem Pier in Williamstown and the Altona Pier are great places to walk or run on or simply to met and while away time with friends and family.

And close to the end of the trail are two beautiful landmarks- the Laverton Foot Bridge and 100 Steps to Federation. The latter is located on the highest point in the area equipped, with picnic facilities allows one to take in a panoramic view of Melbourne, Port Phillip Bay, the Cheetham Wetlands- a rich and ecologically diverse habitat. It was a terrific place from which to view the entire city. 

Finally, at the end of the trail was Skeleton Creek in the Cheetham Wetlands- a key sanctuary for a great number of birds, reptiles, frogs and insects. Among them is the red-necked Sting- a sparrow-sized bird- that goes through a feeding frenzy in this wetland before flying 26,000 kilometers across Australia, Japan, China, Mongolia, and finally Siberia to breed each year! Life, as I rediscovered running this trail is truly amazing! 

And as if discovering this Victoria’s secret was not enough, I made another discovery- the 24-km inland Federation Trail that ends in Werribee River from Brooklyn and that will link up with this coastal trail. That will be 47 km of educational, scenic, and unadulterated trail running!  Reason enough to visit Melbourne, yet again, soon!

Welcome running year 2012!