Running in Indonesia

Indonesia is one of the biggest and most populous countries in the world, with close to a quarter of a billion people inhabiting over 17,000 islands. I have visited the country almost a dozen times, traveled to many of its provinces, but except once in the beaches of Bali, have not really logged serious running mileage.

During a trip to West Java recently, I was determined to alter the 'couldn't run' course. The beautiful surroundings of the the hotel we checked into, near the subdistrict of Cikampek in Karawang Regency, provided the incentive and motivation to run in an otherwise 'difficult-for-running' surroundings.

So very early one morning, I donned my running shoes and explored the new-found environment- man-made forest, lagoons, riverbanks and all. The place was like an oasis on a desert, with lush greenery and traffic-free, four-lane paved streets in the middle of nowhere- a runner's haven.

Having a GPS watch that allows one to track the time spent running, measure the distance covered, and calculate or preset a desired pace comes in very handy during these impromptu runs. I am lucky to be able to alternate between a revived Garmin FR405 and a newer Garmin FR310XT for these purposes.

Mapping a run on Google Earth using Garmin Training Center allows one to analyze the run after the fact. It is quite common when running in the dark and in unfamiliar surroundings to turn a corner and/or make a U-turn a bit too early, only to regret these later after viewing the mapped route.

But it can truly be difficult to find running-friendly places in Indonesia. Running alongside the major highways, for example, such as on this one connecting the West, Central, and East Java provinces, is simply not an option- what with the endless line of trucks and vehicles straddling narrow road shoulders.

In more urban locales such as Bogor, the rain city or Kota Hujan of Indonesia due to its perennial rain showers, one has to compete for limited road space with assorted vehicles such as the ubiquitous Angkot- the most popular local public transport akin to the jeepney of Manila and the tuktuk of Bangkok.

It is therefore advisable to do some research on places to run a priori. As running has not taken off in Indonesia- with no full marathons held last year or scheduled for this year and very few shorter races advertised- looking for running places can be challenging. Government compounds and school campuses are the safe bets.

Or nature parks such as the Bogor Botanical Gardens or Kebun Raya Bogor- an 80-hectare urban refuge that is crisscrossed by streams and dotted by lotus and lily ponds that also is home to over 15000 species of trees, 400 types of palms, and 3000 varieties of orchids- a tough-to-equal mix and richness in biodiversity.

One can also simply head to the nearby mountains for some trail running. Near Bogor, for example, are two volcanoes, Salak to the south and Gunung Gede to the southeast. From a distance, both look very runner-friendly and inviting. Recent volcanic upheavals, earthquakes, and tsunamis should not stand in the way of enjoying a run or two in this diverse country whose national motto is 'unity in diversity'.