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Sunday 30 January 2011

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The road to the Tainan Ancient Capital International Marathon last January 23 started in Taipei, the Republic of China (ROC)’s capital city. I flew to Taipei using my now-favorite budget airline Cebu Pacific to run this marathon that also celebrated the ROC Centennial.

Actual 42K run recorded on a Garmin FR310XT.
Tainan City (臺南市) is Taiwan’s fifth largest city that is famous for night markets and snack food. It was the country’s capital under the Qing Dynasty and the city’s former name, Tayouan (大員), has been cited as the origin of the name Taiwan. One can reach Tainan City by bullet train, rail, car, or bus.

With an early Friday morning arrival in Taipei and thus plenty of time to spare till race day, there was no need to hurry.  Sight-seeing in mind and with luxurious seats rivaling those found in a B777 business class cabin too inviting to resist, to Tainan I rode for four hours on a Ho-Shin Five Star bus.

Tainan City’s ever-changing political landscape over the years has earned it the name as the ‘City of the Phoenix’. To promote sports, the city government’s Education Department was co-hosting this year’s marathon, with the uniquely designed city hall, as race packet distribution site.

On Saturday, at the city hall’s ground floor, waited a phalanx of young lady volunteers ready to receive registered runners and distribute the race packets that included the race bib number, a race timing chip, an information booklet, and a Mizuno light-green singlet.

Fronting City Hall, the starting area, were being assembled tents and roving race paraphernalia bearing the distinctive markings of the Chinese Taipei Road Running Association (CTRRA), the marathon’s other co-sponsor and organizer of Taiwan’s major road runs.

Race packet claimed, it was time to head back and roost at the Agoda.com-booked Toong Mao Wei Yat Grand Hotel, advertised as being along Tainan’s most scenic and beautiful avenue - Qingping Road in Anping District - about 1.8 kilometers from the marathon starting area.

Once again, the racing gear had to be neatly assembled the night before. But save for the new Marathon Maniacs Headsweats visor and the Nathan booster belt, all other gear were recycled and well-worn. The Brooks Adrenaline shoes, for example, was on its 4th marathon-tour-of-duty.

Pre-race ceremonies started at 5:30 that cold Sunday morning. Temperatures that week had dropped to the low 10s and, with the wind chill factored in, it was freezing cold. I had to wear 2 layers of clothing plus an arm-warmer to keep warm.

The 1.8K jog from the hotel and the choreographed exercise routine warmed me up some more. There were 10,000 runners expected to race at 6AM that morning in 3 race categories -10K, 21K, and 42K. At 7AM, a 3K fun run was to also be held, free-of-charge.

From the looks of it, road racing was very much alive and well in Taiwan.  Many runners were members of the CTRRA, that issued the red NT$100 travel bags required for checking in personal effects at the baggage deposit area. Many had traveled distances just to run the race.

As 6AM drew close, runners started to converge at the race start arc. There were no corrals for the elite runners or segregation for those expected to finish within different time frames. In fact, it was going to be a mass start for all - whether running 10K, 21K, or 42K hardly mattered at all!

The result was congestion at the starting area. But on a cold, chilly morning, I don’t think anybody ever complained of the body heat being emanated by other runners close by.  It was one happy close-knit and huddled running family.

As exactly 6AM, a starting gun was fired a short distance away. It took me a couple of minutes to navigate the 50 meters or so separating me and the start arc. The continued chirping of race timing chips heralded yet another journey to marathon land.

At the stage near the starting line, top Tainan officials led by Mayor Ching-Te Lai wished runners a happy and safe run. Under their leadership, Tainan hopes to become the first WHO-recognized ‘international city of health’ and the marathon was part of this campaign.

The first few kilometers saw a jam-packed race. While 10K and 21K runners pushed the gas pedal to the floor, 42K runners coasted along and bid their time. The 42K journey was going to be long - it would pass by famous historical sites including the Eternal Golden Castle and Anping Fort.

The race route would also provide runners glimpses of ecological sites such as the Anping Waterfowl Reserve, the Sihoao Wildlife Refuge, and the Ciga Wildlife Refuge. In addition, the city skyline viewed from a bridge as dawn broke around 7 AM was a rare sight to behold.

As a major city event, the police force was mobilized and came in full force.  Every so often, one could spot a policeman manning a corner and each and every road intersecting with the race course!  Most carried flashing batons and wore endless smiles.

More smiles and cheers were to come from the crowd as race co-sponsors such as the Rotary International set up cheering booths along the race course. This orange-haired lady, for example, could easily give two famous running ladies back home very stiff competition.

Hydration stations were aplenty - set up at the 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, and 40K. Some were ably manned by elderly volunteers, others by a younger generation. Water supply was endless. Alongside these hydration stations were portalets for those in need of comfort and dehydration.

There were hydration stops where an electrolyte drink of a brand I did not recognize was also served. I hydrated well and, for the second marathon in a row, avoided cramps, aided by a pre-race hydration routine and Endurolyte capsules strategically taken along the route.

At the 7.5, 12.5, 22.5, 27.5, 32.5, and 37.5 kilometer marks were sponge stations for runners needing to cool down and refresh. However, with the temperatures staying low all early morning and the sun refusing to shine, sponges remained unused, glad to survive another race day.

It was a different case for the mighty bananas, known as the best food for runner folks. There were at least two banana stops along the course where runners happily downed the sweet and potassium-rich tropical fruit, either whole or chopped.

From about the 15th to the 30th kilometer, we had a chance to run one of Tainan’s major highways - with a full two lanes dedicated to the marathon and zealously guarded by roving highway patrol policemen. I couldn't have felt more secure running those lanes knowing cops were just around.

Marshals in yellow uniform and waving red flags were also to be found at critical race junctures. I had worried earlier that my inability to read Chinese characters and the relatively few kilometer markers would lead me astray. With these marshals, my fears went away.

While no racing-related incidents were reported to my knowledge, medical aid stations, paramedics, and ambulances stationed at the kilometer 0, 10, 14, 20, 24, and 35K markers provided added security in case there was a need to medically address running-related complaints and injuries.

I stopped in at least two of these medical aid stations to avail of the mentholated ointment that paramedics generously sprayed on the front and back of runners’ knees, calves, and shins. Pain I was not feeling at all - these pit stops were just for insurance.

Around the 11K mark, the 42K runners got separated from the 21K group that also numbered several thousands. The running lanes immediately became unclogged. With the cool and cloudy weather, it had become a nice day to run! I turned on my Nano and let alternative rock music blast away.

While the marathon was advertised as an international marathon, I saw only a few foreigners in my pace group, among them this Caucasian. Along the entire race course, however, I could sense there were runners from Korea, Japan, Singapore, and Hong Kong some I saw running barefoot.

Several elite runners had been invited to the marathon. The men’s and women’s races were in fact won by Karanja Elijah Muturi (2:31:37) and Carolyne Kemutai Komen (2:50:36; seen here at around 18K), respectively, both elite runners from Kenya.

There were only two points where time was recorded by the rented (NT$100) race chips - at the 24K U-turn junction for the 42K race and at the start and finish line. No other item was handed out as evidence of completion of a certain race segment. Honesty was obviously the policy.

With no marathon pacers to run with, I had to rely on my first-time-worn but months-ago-bought-from-Dubai Garmin Forerunner 310XT GPS watch to pace me all the way. My other Garmin, an FR405, had conked out after 7 marathon tours-of-duty. I reached 30K in 3:09:35 - still a fast run by me.

Once again, my preparations and hydration/nutrition plans prevented the marathon wall from closing down on me. Sure, there were instances when the road was lonely and difficult to run on, such as this stretch from the 35 to the 40K. By this time runners were well-dispersed, with gas tanks almost running empty.

But just as we entered the city at around the 40K and the roads began to be crowded again, red and sweet watermelon slices were waiting for all runners to partake. With dessert already being served, dinner was most likely over and the end had to be near!

At 41K, Tigger was waiting to greet us all and give us a high-five! The sun had suddenly shone by now and the temperature level was fast rising. So as the city hall again came into view, I mustered all my strength, battled last-minute right side body stitches, and dashed to the finish line!

Just beyond the finish arc I came across a running group celebrating their group's marathon finish the Asian and Chinese way - with loud cheers and a round of even more loud belt of firecrackers! And why not? The city of the Phoenix had just been run on and conquered!

It was now around half past 10 and waiting for runners at the marathon finish area were Chinese food (rice, tofu, chicken, assorted vegetables), juice and water, and, yes, another banana for fast recovery. I immediately downed a bottle of Recoverite drink. The next 42K was just two weeks away.

Then one had to return the reusable race timing chip or forfeit the NT$100 deposit included in the registration fee. While this created an additional step in the marathon running process, recycling and reusing timing chips certainly jibed with Tainan's push for a greener environment. 

For those needing to shop, Mizuno, the marathon’s official outfitter offered a 30% discount on all their running gear. In this city known for vibrant and omnipresent night markets, it was unusual to have only this booth selling running-related gear.

But one had to admire the efficiency by which race officials tabulated and displayed the official race results on-site. Less than 30 minutes after crossing the finish line, I found myself staring at my official finish time of 4 hrs, 29 mins, 53 secs - my second fastest marathon.

The story wouldn’t be complete without the mandatory medal and finish line photo-op. For posterity. After all, this was supposed to be a big one - my 8th marathon in 8 different countries or US states in a short span of just 8 months! An 888 marathon if there ever was one! 

In Chinese numerology, the number 888 is considered as the luckiest combination of numbers, symbolizing eternal prosperity, fortune, happiness, and well-being. What better place to run an 888 marathon then, than in the ancient capital of the land of true 888 believers? 


May the ancient 888 secrets be true!


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