Running Moated City Chiang Mai, Thailand

The moat along one of the Walled City's four corners- Hua Lin.

Nestled in a plain 316 meters above sea level some 700 km north of Bangkok is charming Chiang Mai (เชียงใหม่), Thailand’s ‘Rose of the North’ and fifth largest city. With over a million people calling the Chiang Mai metropolitan area home, the city is a popular destination of tourists and expatriates seeking a permanent home, no doubt lured by the lush greenery and countryside serenity afforded by the rolling foothills of the Himalayan mountain range where Chiang Mai was founded in 1296 AD.

One of the more than 100 wats or temples sprinkled around the city.

Once upon a time a capital of the Lanna kingdom, Chiang Mai in the 1920s was reachable only through a grueling riverboat journey or an arduous elephant ride. This seeming isolation plus the legendary and mystical reputation of the surrounding mountains added to the city’s mysterious and exotic quality. Chiang Mai's core and historical center has been and continues to be the ‘walled city’ where over a hundred temples visually strike and attract devotees and tourists alike. Parts of the ancient wall, including the gates and corners, as well as the moat that feeds on the Ping river, guard the city center to this day.

It's shop till you drop along sidewalks at the Night Bazaar in Chiang Mai.

I was recently invited by a global organization to Chiang Mai to speak on a science- and work-related subject. I stayed at a hotel very close to the ‘walled city’, right at the center of the famed Night Bazaar- a huge market covering the long outdoor stretch of Chang Khlan Road. With the bazaar area actually straddling both sides of the street, and with a gauntlet of street hawkers along both sidewalks bidding no end for one’s attention (and pocket) at night, negotiating, much less running this stretch was indeed a challenge in the evenings when traffic was also heaviest.

A 20K route with a double loop around the moat circling the Walled City.

But, as they say, if there is a will, there is always a way. So, for two days straight, run I did in Chiang Mai – a 20 km distance in total. The route I took and the one I would recommend circled around the walled city, right on the inner and outer banks of the moat. A good starting point is Thapae Gate and one complete loop would be around 9 km. A double loop plus a run inside the Chinese Pavilion near Kuhuang Corner could extend the run to 20 km. Be warned though that even for a determined runner, the historical places and numerous wats along this route are guaranteed vie for your attention, break your stride, and slow down your pace considerably.

Riding the songthaew and tuk-tuk - Thai way of getting around the city.

For the nature lover visiting Thailand, Chiang Mai is a must-see. One can reach the city by plane, bus, or train. Once there, one can get around uniquely the Thai way by songthaew (สองแถว) which is a covered pick-up truck with two rows for sitting in the back or by the three-wheeled tuk-tuk. One of the best times to visit is during the first weekend in February when the city stages the famous Chiang Mai flower festival that drapes the city with the vibrant colors of temperate and tropical flowers. The festivities include floral floats and parades and traditional dancing shows, with homes and the city streets lined with colorful flowers in full bloom.

Racing with the songthaew along the ruins of the Moated City's walls.

Variety in things to do is no problem in Chiang Mai. There are museums to visit, temples to meditate in, elephants to ride on, surrounding hills to trek, native peoples and hill tribes to commune with, and gardens upon gardens to relax in. Looking to mix and match running and vacations? Running events are held throughout the year!  And if running full marathons is your cup of tea, then you are truly in luck. On December 26, barely a day after Christmas, will be held the Chiang Mai Marathon!

Running the moat's outer bank near Kuhuang corner.

Wouldn’t that be a cool way to burn off those excess Yuletide calories just in time for another guilt-free splurge by New Year?  Better still, wouldn't it be nice to celebrate finishing the marathon through the elaborate and uniquely Lanna Thai tradition - the Khantoke dinner, replete with delicious food in large platters and Thai classical dancers? 

Go figure!